Locate the failure before resealing
Water can travel before it appears, so the visible drip is not always at the failed joint. Check the whole area and rule out plumbing, roof or drainage problems before adding sealant. If the leak involves electrical equipment, hidden building damage or a vehicle windscreen, stop and seek qualified help.
Remove, clean and dry
New sealant usually will not form a durable bond over loose, contaminated or wet old material. Cut away the failed bead carefully, use a remover only as directed and protect the surrounding finish. Clean off residue and let the joint dry completely.
Apply and wait
Run a continuous bead without leaving gaps, tool it promptly and observe the label’s cure time before exposing it to water. The source guide describes 24–48 hours as a common range, but the specific formula, bead depth, temperature and humidity can change that substantially.
A fresh bead cannot fix movement, a failed fitting or a leak whose source has not been identified.
This page is an original, concise educational summary based on the linked source article. Product specifications can change; consult the manufacturer’s current instructions before use.